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WACSO / Heavy Table


Call this airing “Adventures in Acoustic Annoyances.” Four of the bristles restaurants we visited were bedeviled by some affectionate of sonic quirk. For whatever aen — maddening repeion, abominable speakers, boundless aggregate — the accomplishments music affected its way advanced and center.

That aside, this airing was notable for addition reason. This may accept been one of the alone account installments breadth we visited bristles places, anniversary of which offered the cuisine of a altered country. In this case, Japanese, Somali, Ethiopian, Indian, and Mexican. Not a bad ability for “Downtown Longfellow.” — M.C. Cronin

This week’s account crew: WACSO, M.C. Cronin, James Norton, Becca Dilley

OTHER EAST LAKE STREET CHECKLIST INSTALLMENTS: Lake Plaza, Gorditas el Gordo to Pineda Tacos, Taqueria Victor Hugo to Safari Restaurant, El Sabor Chuchi to The Rabbit Hole, Midtown Global Market, Miramar to San Miguel Bakery, Mercado Central, Ingebretsen’s to Pasteleria Gama, La Alborada to Quruxlow

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ABOUT THIS PROJECT

The East Lake Account is the third Heavy Table ilrated travelogue to yze a aloft gastronomic avenue in Minneapolis and/or St. Paul. The East Lake Account is the Heavy Table’s aftereffect to our 55-restaurant ysis of absolute eateries on Central Avenue and our 72-restaurant alternation about restaurants on the Green Line. We’ll broadcast five-restaurant installments annual until we’ve accurate every nonchain atom on East Lake Street amid 35W and the Mississippi River. (We’re ciphering 75 spots, but we’ll see w it all-overs out.)

This alternation is fabricated accessible by underwriting from Appointment Lake Street. Heavy Table retains beat ascendancy of the alternation — as with Central Avenue and the Green Line, this bout will be warts-and-all.

“From the river to the lakes, visitors and ociation can boutique bounded and be amusing on Lake Street. Added advice at VisitLakeStreet.com.”

WACSO / Heavy Table

Midori’s Amphibian World Cafe2629 E Lake St, Minneapolis

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In agreement of atmosphere, Midori’s Amphibian World Bistro has all the hallmarks of a better-than-average Japanese dining experience. The adornment is considered. Colorful oil-paper umbrellas band the ceiling. A row of tall, abounding plants adds a blow of life. The bright-blue walls are busy with watercolors and blooming artwork. The counters and sushi bar and shelving are dotted with Asian tctchkes: advantageous cat figurines, tissue cardboard crafts, origami, and amphibian candles.

WACSO / Heavy Table

It’s comfortable, but not too comfortable. If Goldilocks was in the affection for Japanese, Midori’s would clothing her well. Altugh, in this academic scenario, she ability ask them to about-face bottomward the tin-can speakers pumping out J-pop. — M.C.

*** FOOD NOTES ***

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

Properly done tempura is both adequately attenuate and a absolute joy — light, crispy, and aerial — and Midori’s knows w to handle its tempura. Aria’s Tempura Rice Balls ($6) came out brittle and brim t, and while a bit of acerbic or ambrosial calefaction would accept angled them out, they were a mellow, crispy, admirable treat.

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

Our Tokyo Ramen ($12.25) was simple, soft-spoken, and accurate as a pin, anniversary basic (wheat noodles, adamantine aloft egg slices, angle cake, broken pork) anxiously placed and appropriately cooked. The accomplished bowl was beautifully composed and carefully seasoned.

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Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

The Vegetable Tempura Rolls ($4 at blessed ur) came calm nicely: the rice adorable and tender, the all-embracing acidity contour mild, the textures complementary, and the all-embracing acquaintance simple but pleasurable. We’ve begin that rice is both the key to acceptable sushi and one of the most-overlooked elements at characterless Japanese restaurants; Midori’s knows its rice, and that sws.

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

We additionally enjoyed the Red Jasmine Art Tea ($5), a agilely flavored cooler powered by the gorgeous, advance botanical aspect within. — James Norton

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African Paradise2700 E Lake St, Minneapolis

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It’s a simple setup. You adjustment at the adverse and delay at your table for your aliment to arrive. The night we visited, the actuality abaft the adverse was blessed to advice us arise up with a few things to try. He alike offered a aftertaste of the tamarind abstract afore we committed to acclimation three ample gles of the stuff.

WACSO / Heavy Table

The amplitude is additionally adequately simple. Maroon and gold apparel bound ample windows. There are terrazzo floors and earth-toned walls, aerial ceilings with apparent ductwork, atramentous bottle chandeliers and sconces. In person, it feels added commonsensical than it apparently sounds on paper. It’s added bistro than accomplished dining room.

Thankfully, African Paradise has the aen of actuality the alone restaurant on on this airing that didn’t beat us aurally. If they were arena music, it was appropriately pulled aback into the ambiance. — M.C.

*** FOOD NOTES ***

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

The Mediterranean Sampler Bowl ($13) at African Paradise is aloof addition name for the bowl we’ve arise to apperceive and adulation from Lake Street’s abounding East African restaurants: the action platter. It came loaded bottomward with a few altered meats, including strips of gyro meat (oversalted, contrarily unremarkable), kofta (light, acclaim seasoned, and tender), and seared strips of beef (a bit boxy but abundantly savory).

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

Our drinks — mango abstract and tamarind abstract — were bright, full-flavored, and thinner than the ones we usually encounter, but not clumsily so.

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

The Hummus at African Paradise (the aggregate of the hummus, tomato, and cuber Appetizer Platter, $4) was delicious. Like the actuality at Halwo Kismayo, it was appreciably light, delicate, and well-balanced.

Our Craven Steak ($14) was absolutely in the branch of fajita meat, cut into baby strips and absolutely seasoned, but served not in tortillas but instead aloft a bed of decidedly ambrosial spaghetti. — J.N.

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Addis Ababa2713 E Lake St, Minneapolis

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It feels like added of a bar, music venue, and disco that aloof happens to accept a restaurant attached. The bar sits anon in the centermost of the e. There’s a roped-off VIP breadth with low, adequate couch bat on one ancillary of the allowance and a date in the back. The complete system, if cranked, could aate St. Paul. The abode appears accessible to affair on any actomed weekend night.

WACSO / Heavy Table

Addis Ababa is the basic of Ethiopia, and the adornment reflects the culture. Walls are busy with black-and-white pencil portraits of Ethiopian people. Columns are corrective in giraffe-esque geometric patterns. TVs througut the abode played Ethiopian pop music videos.

The affinity of rhythms and repeive attributes of the songs, which would ignment able-bodied in a bistro at midnight, didn’t ignment absolutely as able-bodied on a Thursday evening. Eventually, we sed to admiration if we were bent in some affectionate of time-e loop, alert to the aforementioned song over and over. Then strangely, the music videos morphed into a promo for a bells videographer. — M.C.

*** FOOD NOTES ***

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

The best affair we can say about the meal at Addis Ababa is that the aliment (Special Tibs Fitfit, $15, and the Vegetarian Platter, $17, above) was acutely ed with absolute heat. Unfortunately its arrangement and overdoneness appropriate that it had been captivated for some time afore service.

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

Our Craven Sambusas ($8 for four) had acceptable chewy/crispy absurd wrappers abounding with ed arena craven with a arrangement not clashing laab, but defective abundant abyss or punch. The bearings was not bigger by the straight-from-the-neighborod-Chinese-joint avoid booze served on the side. — J.N.

WACSO / Heavy Table

Gandhi Mahal3009 27th Ave, Minneapolis

We’re activity to book this appointment to Gandhi Mahal up as a one-off anomaly. But, wow, what an anomaly.

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Honestly, if you’d told us after that we’d absolutely disconnected a robbery and a masked aggregation of abyss was captivation the chef earnest in the kitchen the absolute time we were there, we would’ve believed you. There was apparent astriction in the air. The agents seemed aloof in interacting with the tomers, and they interacted as minimally as possibly with anniversary other. It was as if all joy had abolished from the room.

WACSO / Heavy Table

This was odd, because above the aberancy in the air that evening, Gandhi Mahal gives the consequence of a abode that cares. After all, a restaurant doesn’t accept a bat aquaponics arrangement if they aren’t really, absolutely trying. The adornment is abatement and comfortable, abounding of balmy colors and textures. On a acceptable night you’d apprehend annihilation beneath than a peaceful, abstracted vibe.

Adding to our off-kilter feeling, about center through the appointment we ample out that the aerial music was absolutely a alternation of pop songs covered in acceptable Indian style. The sitar and tabla awning of Alanis Morissette’s Ironic put the attach in the coffin. — M.C.

*** FOOD NOTES ***

Context is important for reviews, and clashing best spots on Lake Street, Gandhi Mahal is a restaurant we’ve gotten to apperceive absolutely able-bodied over the years. We’ve apparently dined in or ordered out from the atom 30 or 40 times, with about acceptable to accomplished results. Consistency has wavered, and we’ve never been able to get our mango lis anxiously delivered, but we’ve about been blessed to acclaim the place.

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

This is to say our appointment two Sundays ago acquainted like either a abrogating outlier or a adviser of the end times. Our Samosas ($5) actomed at the table decidedly aptic in color, and the chef was partially raw in the interior, suggesting that they had been adapted in breach acrimonious oil.

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Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

Our Craven Biryani ($13) was, in a word, “muddy.” The flavors of the dish’s acceptable es were clumsily adamantine to discern, the arrangement gluey, and the craven dry. We’ve had acceptable biryani afore (see our appointment to Paradise Biryani Pointe), and it works best back it is light, delicate, and fresh. This bowl was none of tse things.

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

Finally, we were aflame to try the Bangla Tilapia ($15), which seemed like a bout fabricated in heaven amid a neutral, clean-tasting angle and a acutely ed gravy. Unfortunately, the tilapia in our access had a audibly ambiguous odor and acidity that cut through the booze like a blowtorch through naan.

Speaking of naan, the two we approved (regular and peshwari) were excellent, warm, pliable, and hardly crispy. — J.N.

WACSO / Heavy Table

El Nuevo Rodeo2709 E Lake St, Minneapolis

Hand it to El Nuevo Rodeo for afraid with the western theme. There’s a braiding loing their name on one wall. Horse collars and added tack are displayed about the room. Virtually every armchair in the abode has a bucking bearcat logo advised into it. Don’t get us wrong, this isn’t a “theme” restaurant, but you wouldn’t be out of abode cutting a brace of Tony Lama’s and a snap-front western shirt.

WACSO / Heavy Table

At its heart, El Nuevo Rodeo is aloof a comfortable Mexican restaurant with ney-toned copse floors, balmy craven walls, and ceilings corrective terra cotta. There’s alike the requisite bar with signs announcement tequilas, margaritas, and cervezas.

WACSO / Heavy Table

The night we visited, a aculation of about fifteen was aggregate bistro family-style from platters of aliment set bottomward at intervals forth their table. Despite the actuality that a DJ was announcement loud banda music absolute for two-stepping, no one was absolutely dancing, nor did they arise absorbed in accomplishing so. Amid the advancing accordion and the umption attack, it acquainted like a bazaar could breach out any minute. — M.C.

*** FOOD NOTES ***

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

We’re consistently admiring back a card has a “specialties of the use” area because it suggests a pride of buying that about consistently after-effects in a appetizing meal. This was the case at El Nuevo Rodeo, breadth we approved and absolutely enjoyed the Cochinita Pibil (slow-roasted pork in a achiote-citrus paste, $18). The meat itself was breakable and initially about caramel-sweet, cone-shaped off to a balmy but abundant ambrosial accomplishment that played accurately with the accompanying atramentous beans and altogether broiled plantains.

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

We’re ers for Craven Fajitas ($16 at El Nuevo Rodeo), and the abode adaptation was solid. The craven was breakable and accurately cooked, altugh (like the onions) it could accept acclimated a added advancing char. The consuent (sour cream, guac, pico de gallo) were on point, and the best of abrade or blah tortillas was appreciated.

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

We approved a brace of margaritas, and they were absolutely in the “large/fun” affected as against to the “/old-scol” affected of the beverage. The Margarita Rodeo ($8.25) was sweeter and added fruit-punch-forward than we like them, but the Margarita Cadillac ($8.75) had a accurate tequila courage that we appreciated. — J.N.

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