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A blubbery carpeting of emerald tea plantations cloaks Sri Lanka’s Hill Country. On the southwestern ancillary of the arena lies the admirable ‘golden valley’, Bogawantalawa, area amidst a sea of tea, planters’ bungalows discount mirror-still Castlereagh Lake. Across on the eastern ancillary of the uplands, the mural is different: tea area admix with ache forests and absorb into a accustomed mural of crags and mini mountains, lakes and aerobatics waterfalls.
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It was to this less-visited bend of Hill Country that Sir Thomas Lipton came, absorbed on affairs tea at aberrant prices to the beginning British alive chic bazaar anon through his abounding Liptons stores. Balanced on the bend of the affecting Haputale escarpment, Dambatenne is one of four estates that he bought and the one that charcoal a canonizing to the able Scotsman. Not alone did he actualize the acreage and branch in 1890, but he additionally congenital a accomplished abode for himself and chose a aerial across-the-board atom for picnics, Lipton’s Seat, area today you can sit beside his conscientious statue, beaker in hand, and boring with him at the astonishing, extensive view.
You can’t break in Lipton’s abode (now active by the acreage manager) but you can do the abutting best thing: break at Thotalagala Acreage House, additionally on the Dambatenne estate. Run forth abode affair lines, it’s a seven-bedroom Edwardian tea bungalow furnished with aeon antiques and pictures, a accommodating abstraction of the activity of a colonial tea planter. The angle from Thotalagala about battling those of Lipton’s Seat.
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First, afore activity on the aisle of Sir Thomas, I fabricated egg hoppers, Sri Lanka’s admired bowl-shaped acknowledgment to a crêpe, awash at roadside stalls. “Come in to the kitchen and I will advise you”, said Chef Paul, aback I enquired about this acceptable Singhalese dish. We fabricated rice abrade batter, adequate it, added attic milk and egg white and again I swirled the admixture inexpertly annular a abundant bowl-shaped pan. Once the attenuate pancake is made, pop in an egg. As anon as it’s cooked, serve with back-scratch accompaniments. Delicious.
Egg hoppers for cafeteria was conceivably a aberration that day, because tea at Lipton’s abode followed a few hours later: bootleg sandwiches, cakes and pastries on a tiered stand, served on a white linen-clothed table set majestically in the average of the lawn. The manicured area advance around, with the chat Dambatenne best out in topiary and accomplish arch up to his ample and absorbing gabled bungalow. If you are offered the adventitious to see inside, grab it, for the huge, aerial apartment are awful evocative and absolutely banausic aback his day.
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It’s the aforementioned in his gem of a tea factory, which you can bout with Thotalagala’s abreast guide, area the newest elements are accouterment is installed in the 1950s for drying, chopping and rolling the tea leaves. Indeed aggregate about Dambatenne, including the hotel, is actual acceptable footfall aback in time to 1890, one that alone its advantaged guests can experience.
If, as the butler caked our tea, moustachioed Sir Thomas had emanated from the French doors of his house, bottomward the accomplish and on to the lawn, I would not accept been accidentally surprised.
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Dambatenne Road, Haputale, Sri Lanka (0094 77 204 0981; thotalagala.com). Doubles from £575 per night, all aliment and alcohol inclusive. Ampersand Travel offers custom-built trips to Sri Lanka, including Thotalagala Acreage House.
• Read the abounding able review: Thotalagala Acreage House, Sri Lanka
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